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Although three million people come to see the
GRAND CANYON OF THE COLORADO every year, it remains be

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Although three million people come to see
the GRAND CANYON OF THE COLORADO every year, it remains beyond the grasp of the
human imagination. No photograph, no set of statistics, can prepare you for such
vastness. At more than one mile deep, it’s an inconceivable abyss; at between
four and eighteen miles wide it’s an endless expanse of bewildering shapes and
colors, glaring desert brightness and impenetrable shadow, stark promontories
and soaring, never-to-be-climbed sandstone pinnacles. Somehow it’s so impassive,
so remote you could never call it a disappointment, but at the same time many
visitors are left feeling peculiarly flat. In a sense, none of the available
activities can quite live up to that first stunning sight of the chasm. The
overlooks along the rim all offer views that shift and change unceasingly from
dawn to sunset; you can hike down into the depths on foot or by mule, hover
above in a helicopter or raft through the whitewater rapids of the river itself;
you can spend a night at Phantom Ranch on the canyon floor, or swim in the
waterfalls of the idyllic Havasupai Reservation. And yet that distance always
remains the Grand Canyon stands apart.
　　Until the 1920s, the average
visitor would stay for two or three weeks. These days it’s more like two or
three hours of which forty minutes are spent actually looking at the canyon. The
vast majority come to the South Rim it’s much easier to get to, there are far
more facilities (mainly at Grand Canyon Village), and it’s open all year round.
There is another lodge and campground at the North Rim, which by virtue of its
isolation can be a lot more evocative, but at one thousand feet higher it is
usually closed by snow from mid-October until May. Few people visit both rims;
to get from one to the other demands either a two-day hike down one side of the
canyon and up the other, or a 215-mile drive by road.
　　Finally, there’s a
definite risk that on the day you come the Grand Canyon will be invisible
beneath a layer of fog, thanks to the 250 tons of sulphurous emissions pumped
out every day by the Navajo Generating Station, seventy miles upriver at Page.

　　Admission to the park, valid for seven days on either rim, is $20 per
vehicle or $10 for pedestrians and cyclists.